We finally did it. We bought bikes. We changed our lives forever.
I honestly don't know how we lived without them. We got advice from a student about a bike shop that might sell used bikes. We wanted to get used ones because they are cheaper, but mostly because bikes get stolen about 3 times a year-- you don't exactly want to splurge on a nice one. So we hop in a cab, hand the driver the phone [enter student to translate for us] and off we go. After making a few turns here and a few turns there we get dropped off on the main road right behind our home-- only now we're about 2 km down. We look for a shop but see nothing. Hmm, maybe we can ask someone? Collin sees a man fixing a bike inside a small covered "Bike Valet." There are little areas around town where you can lock your bike up and an attendant will watch your bike for a few yuan. This was one such place. Collin says, "I think this is it?"
"No, it's just one of those bike valet things."
"No, look," Collin points to a small row of bikes, wrapped in plastic and foam, with bright, shiny rims instead of rusty, used ones.
"Whoa, you're right." We approach the man and say, "Duo shou qian?" (How much?)
"Yi bai wu, san bai, er bai leo, er bai," (150, 300, 260, 200) he says, pointing to four groups in the row.
"How do we ask about used bikes?" Collin looks at me.
"No idea." We bust out our pocket dictionary and look for the word "used." No luck. We find "new" and add "no" in front of it: "Bu xin?" [We don't even know how to say bike. Whoops.]
"Mei you," (Don't have any) he replies.
Seeing as the most expensive new bike he has is 300 kuai ($42), we figure we might as well just get new ones since we're here and we really need bikes. We try out one from each group, test the brakes, go for a short ride down the block and back... finally decide on a little black, compact, fold-able for Collin and a single speed blue one for me. He wants 220 for mine and 260 for Collin's. Let the bargaining begin. We ask for 400 for both, then 450, but he isn't budging. He throws in a basket for mine and two bike locks, throwing the price up to 520 or so. We try again at 480, but he still isn't having it. Just then, the clouds that had been threatening rain all day grow darker and closer-- our bargaining is done. We hand him 500 kuai and say, "Hoa ma?" (Good?) He laughs at us, gives up on the last 20 kuai and says, "Hao."
We jump on the bikes and pedal as fast as we can, trying to beat the rain. Unfortunately we are pedaling toward it, but fortunately it isn't coming down too hard. We arrive home safely--slightly wet but very happy--with our new transportation.
Getting to work now takes 5 minutes instead of 15-20 on foot, getting around our neighborhood doesn't call for taxis anymore, and seeing the city from a new vantage point is amazing. I got my first real experience with that today, on my first long ride through my district.
I set out with no particular destination, just a strong desire to explore places that are always around me but never seen. You can't hop in a cab and go for a joyride, especially if you can't communicate with the driver. I've been to the north of our district quite a few times, but never to the south-- my direction for the day. I was told the zoo was that way and a park I had seen once was also to the south, so off I rode. I smiled as I realized each pedal motion was taking me along a patch of earth I had never been on before. "Never been here or here or here...or... here," I thought to myself, laughing at my own silliness. I figured that if I got lost I could always backtrack, but doubted this would occur due to my keen sense of direction [and the fact that almost every street has north, south, east, west in the name].
I got off to a rough start, being stuck on a busy street near my home packed with cars and taxis and bikes and buses and people. I was already frustrated that I couldn't just ride. However, I finally broke free to a larger street with a larger bike lane where I was able to ride with a bit more liberty. I passed huge buildings and looked down small streets I'd never seen. I turned down one, and then another, basing my destinations on one factor: greenery. The greener the street, the more I followed. I passed a dance academy and instantly noticed women and men with dancer bodies and shops filled with dance clothes and costumes. I saw a huge patch of trees in the distance... maybe the park I was hoping for? Indeed, soon I approached a beautiful park-- not the one I was seeking but this one was far better-- but was discouraged to find no bikes allowed. I made a mental note of the landmarks and streets: I will definitely be visiting this park in the future for reading, pondering, walking, and wondering.
I continued on, back on the main road, sure I would come to the zoo soon. I turned down a smaller street, away from the main road into a large government complex with trees and flowers and gardens. Charming. I miss charming. I headed back south. I saw a bridge. And water. Water? And boats. Boats? Incredible. [I thought for a moment I had been biking too long and my mind was creating a mirage.] I turned my bike along the water-- it was a long canal with weeping willows and summer flowers lining its edge. The best part? A small street that followed along the edge, allowing me to follow the waterway. I came to a dead end (the water continued, but the road turned into a private drive) and decided to take a short break. I sat and watched boats filled with people float by on a cool summer day and was truly amazed that this place sat a few kilometers away from my home and I had never known. I biked along the rest of the water in the opposite direction and noticed a distinct smell. I looked toward where it came from. Deer?? Surely my lack of sleep was getting to me now. Nope, it was real. I saw a group of deer in Beijing. I assumed this was the back of the zoo. Meeting another dead end, I headed back north.
I continued my direction decision method (follow the green) on the other side of the main road now. I pedaled along new streets with new shops and new people, hearing the inevitable random shouts of "Hello!" with almost every turn. I came to an intersection that looked oddly familiar. As I sat at the light I realized where I was: on a street full of "Hot Pot" restaurants where Collin and I had taken Mom during her stay. I laughed at myself for actually finding a place I had been before, knowing I still would have no idea how to get there once I left it again. I also felt a sense of belonging between myself and the city, similar to when I run into a student or a friend on the opposite side of this enormous city.
I biked along in the direction I assumed was home, looking for landmarks as clues to my whereabouts. I finally noticed a large road, most likely one of the city's Ring Roads. Sure enough, 3rd Ring Road appeared and I knew I was close. I saw a market in the distance and realized through all my zig-zagging I ended up on the main street behind our home, the same one I started on today and the same one I purchased my bike on before. On cue, the clouds began to threaten rain and then to sprinkle as I hurried home--arriving safely and happily--on my new transportation.
-T
